Which is my favourite quilt coat pattern?

It’s not surprising that I have embraced the quilt coat trend. I love making quilts, sewing my own clothes, and I hate being cold. And because I can’t disappear off to Spain every winter, a quilt coat is the next best thing!

Here are three of my favourite quilt coat patterns, along with a comparison of their hoods and some notes on binding:

1. The Tamarack by Grainline Studios
   • Pros: This pattern has a good range of sizes and features a flattering shape due to its scooped hemline around the hips. The longer back piece provides extra coverage, and you have the option for welted or patch pockets, as well as no collar, collar, or hood options.
   • Cons: The pattern was originally written for non quilted fabric, which can make it confusing, especially when dealing with darts and welted pockets. Additionally, the Hood, Collar & Patch Pockets Variation comes at an extra cost.
   • Hood: My favourite hood of the three. It’s a good shape and easy to bind.

1. The Chore Coat by Patchwork & Poodles
   • Pros: Designed specifically for quilted panels or to repurpose an existing quilt, this pattern has a slimmer fit and a sporty straight hemline at the hip. It includes the hood, collar, and pocket patterns in the initial cost. The pattern is simply written and easy to follow. I like the method for inserting the sleeve. It is straightforward to adjust the length of this coat.
   • Cons: Since it is a slim fit, you may want to make a toile (a test garment) to ensure the fit is perfect for you. It may not suit all sizes. 
   • Hood: My least favourite hood. I find it a bit bulky. I prefer the collared version.

1. The Elemental Coat by Crinkle Dreams
   • Pros: This pattern offers lots of variations, including a cropped jacket, a hip-skimming length, and a longer knee-length version. There are also two sleeve lengths. Like the Chore Coat, you can choose a design with or without a collar or a hood, all included in the original pattern purchase. Plus, it features in-seam pockets, which we’ve all been waiting for in a quilt coat pattern.
   • Cons: I generally am not a fan of dropped shoulder designs as the coat can feel a little bulky, but I know others appreciate the extra room. The coat is designed with a one-button closing, but I chose to size up and add buttons down the front.
   • Hood: I also like this hood. It sits well around the neck and is easy to bind.

Making a Reversible Coat

Any coat can be made reversible with careful attention to binding the internal seams. This is my preference for any coat, as I dislike raw internal seams; unbound wadding leaves fluff on your clothes. However, I haven’t been able to master a reversible coat with double sided in-seam pockets, yet! Stay tuned…

Binding

I’m not afraid of a hand-finished binding; I think it’s worth the effort. I make my own by cutting 2″ bias strips and feeding them through the Simplicity bias tape maker. I’ve also used pre-made bias tape, stocking up at quilt shops that have a cute selection. There is a lot of binding required to bind a coat once you take into account the outside edges, sleeve cuffs, collar/ hood, and internal sleeve and side seams. It can be up to 8 meters depending on the pattern and size. Hate binding, most quilt coat patterns provide alternate finishing methods, like overlocking and Hong Kong seams.

Quilting Tips for Making a Coat

If you are making a quilt from scratch, think about how you want your finished coat to look and feel. Not just the patchwork but also the wadding and density of quilting:

• Wadding: Cotton and bamboo wadding that has been lightly quilted and washed and dried has a better drape. Hand quilting with a wool/poly wadding gives a coat a puffy look.
• Warmth: The warmth of your coat can vary based on the amount of patchwork, the type of wadding and the density of the quilting.
• Lining/Backing Fabric: Choose smooth fabrics for the lining. They are softer on the skin and drape better.

Whether you’re looking for a project to keep you warm or a stylish way to showcase your quilting talents, these patterns and tips offer something for everyone. Happy sewing!

I teach a Two Day Quilt Coat Workshop. Find a list of them by searching my class schedule.

• 28 – 30 June at GJ’s Discount Fabrics (Melbourne)
• 6 – 7 July at Fabric Garden (Sydney)
• 3 – 4 October at Quilt Symposium (New Zealand)